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LE TANNEUR
- 1 hour ago
- 4 min read
Brand Scorecard:
★★★★☆
Leather: 3.5
Hardware: 4
Design: 4
Engineering: 4.5
Craftsmanship: 5
TOTAL: 4
Brand Website: letanneur.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
BRIEF HISTORY
Founded in 1898 during the Belle Époque, Le Tanneur emerged from the collaboration between leatherworker Charles Bonnardel and third-generation tanner Francisque Bornex. Their innovative spirit led to the creation of the "Sans Couture," a seam-free leather coin purse assembled using rivets instead of traditional stitching. This groundbreaking design earned acclaim at the 1900 Paris Universal Exhibition, securing a silver medal and establishing Le Tanneur's reputation for inventive craftsmanship.
Over the ensuing decades, Le Tanneur expanded its operations, constructing a significant factory in Belley and opening boutiques in Paris. The brand's commitment to quality was recognized in 1914 when it was selected to supply leather goods to the French Army. Throughout the 20th century, Le Tanneur continued to evolve, introducing a diverse range of products, including handbags and briefcases, while maintaining its dedication to French elegance and artisanal excellence.
FIVE PILLARS OF A GOOD LEATHERCRAFT
READING MY ASSESSMENT SCORES
AUDIENCE & CUSTOMER'S PERSPECTIVE
How would you rate Le Tanneur as a brand?
How would you rate Le Tanneur as a brand?
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PRODUCTS REVIEWED
Le Tanneur: A Tanner’s Dream or Just French Flair?
Le Tanneur's Emilie Handbag
Le Tanneur, a heritage brand out of Paris, has long intrigued leather enthusiasts with its name alone—it literally means “The Tanner” in French. Naturally, a brand with such a title piqued my curiosity. After receiving multiple suggestions from you, I decided to purchase and dissect one of their offerings: an Emilie small crossbody handbag crafted from pebbled calfskin leather. Let’s take a closer look at what this bag delivers for its €400 price tag.
First Impressions: Classic Meets Clean
Upon unboxing, the design immediately stood out with its timeless, structured silhouette. It’s a style that evokes the essence of a classic handbag, executed with a charming and contemporary twist. The base of the bag is solid and well-defined, allowing it to sit upright elegantly. Contrasting ecru stitching adds a tasteful accent, giving the piece subtle visual depth without overwhelming its minimalist aesthetic. From a visual design standpoint, the bag earns a solid four out of five.
The Structure: Smart Engineering in Leather Form
Delving into the construction of the bag reveals a mastery of structural engineering. Three distinct support materials have been strategically integrated into the build. These elements are skived and shaped to create a form that is both supportive and flexible—a hallmark of advanced leathercraft. The way the support material bows the bag downward while maintaining its upright base demonstrates careful consideration of long-term wear and tear. If these elements weren’t correctly executed, the bag would lose its form over time. This attention to structural integrity is impressive, and I’m giving the structure a four and a half out of five.
Craftsmanship: A Workshop That Respects Its Craft
Opening the bag, it’s evident that the inner workmanship was handled with precision and patience. Every material is cleanly applied and thoughtfully finished. There’s no evidence of rushed assembly; instead, this piece feels like it was made in a workshop where quality takes precedence over speed. The crafting process appears deliberate and meticulous—exactly what I love to see in a quality leather product. On that front, craftsmanship earns a strong four out of five.
Hardware: Functional and Fitting
The hardware used on this bag feels solid and well-finished. While it's made from softer alloys, the coating is well done, adding durability and a touch of elegance. This is not high-end luxury hardware, but it's certainly at the upper range of what the mid-market typically offers. Considering the overall build and price point of the bag, the choice of hardware feels like a smart, balanced decision. For this reason, it deserves a four out of five.
Leather Quality: Good, But Not Perfect
When it comes to leather, I always look for that raw, tactile sense of natural hide—the soul of the material, if you will. In this case, the finish removed more of that natural feeling than I’d prefer. While the surface finish is suitable for fashion applications and adds protection, it slightly mutes the leather's inherent charm. That said, it’s still a decent quality pebbled calfskin, just not one that makes you fall in love at first touch. The leather scores a three and a half.
Cost Breakdown: What Are You Really Paying For?
Let’s talk numbers. This crossbody bag uses about seven square feet of pebbled calfskin. At market rates, that places the leather cost around $40. Factoring in assembly costs—including the detailed craftsmanship and hardware used—I estimate labor and hardware to cost about $85, assuming production in Thailand, which this piece likely was. Altogether, that brings my estimated production cost to $125.
On the retail end, Le Tanneur lists the bag for €400, which includes VAT. Removing that tax, the brand likely nets around €335, or roughly $370. That gives us a price multiplier of just under 3x. Given my experience, I consider a multiplier between 3x to 5x fair for independent or boutique brands, especially when the quality is this solid. At a multiplier of 3x, Le Tanneur is delivering tremendous value.
Final Thoughts: A Brand Worth Exploring
What really stands out about this bag is how much thoughtful craftsmanship it offers at a relatively accessible price point. The work done by artisans in Thailand shows that high-caliber leather goods are not confined to legacy European maisons. “Made in” labels mean little to me; what matters is the mindset behind the making. This bag showcases a thoughtful design, careful engineering, respectable materials, and fair pricing—all signs of a brand that takes its work seriously.
Le Tanneur may not be on every fashionista’s radar, but it certainly deserves a closer look from leather enthusiasts who value substance over flash. I'm genuinely impressed, and this experience has made me eager to explore more from the brand.
Until next time, stay leathertained.
Scorecard
TANNER'S APPROVED
★★★★☆ - 4
