The 3 Pillars of Leather Quality You Need to Know

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Throughout my life, friends have turned to me for help with their new leather purchases. They weren’t confident in judging quality or authenticity themselves, and they wanted my opinion. But here’s the thing: I believe all of us have the innate ability to evaluate leather. Somewhere along the way, we’ve just gotten lazy. We’ve let advertising and big brands dictate what’s “good,” and in the process, we’ve forgotten that we already have the tools to make these judgments.

I wanted to make this post because I keep getting the same question over and over: What is the best leather? And while it seems simple, the answer isn’t. It depends on what the leather is for—whether it’s a bag, a shoe, a glove, a couch, or even underwear. What makes leather “the best” varies depending on its intended use.

Today, I’ll share a framework to help you assess leather quality based on your needs. We’ll explore the three pillars of great leather: the rawhide, the tanning process, and the finishing stage. And to make it relatable, I’ll illustrate these concepts using one of my favorite types of fashion leather—shrinking calf leather, also known as Togo.

The Raw Hide: Where It All Begins

Though a finished leather bag may look elegant and refined, the journey begins in a much nastier place. The rawhide is essentially a byproduct of the meat industry—a heavy, bloody, steaming piece of flesh. If left untreated for more than eight hours, bacteria will destroy it beyond repair. But thanks to resourceful and hardworking artisans, this raw material can be preserved and transformed into something extraordinary.

The first step is preservation, usually by salting or drying the hide. Then it’s sent to a tannery, where the magic begins. But even before the tanning process, the quality of the rawhide itself plays a significant role in determining the final leather’s potential.

Factors like the type of animal, its age, the climate it lived in, and even how it grazed all affect the hide’s grain and potential scarring. For example, cows that roam freely are exposed to natural elements, insects, and barbed wire, which can leave scars on their hides. Finding a pristine, "baby-faced" hide is incredibly rare, making these hides extremely valuable. Meanwhile, scarred hides are more common and much cheaper. Thankfully, tanneries can turn even imperfect hides into usable materials, depending on the leather’s intended purpose.

Tanning: The Transformation

The tanning process is where raw hides are transformed into stable, durable leather. Think of it like cooking a gourmet dish—tanning takes anywhere from two to eight weeks, depending on the method. It involves hundreds of ingredients, mechanical tools, and artisanal steps. This makes tanning one of the most labor-intensive crafts in the world.

The quality of tanning largely depends on the expertise of the tanner. While recipes play a role, they account for only about 20% of the process’s success. The rest comes down to the tanner’s judgment, skill, and experience. Much like baking a cheesecake, simply having a recipe isn’t enough—execution is key.

During tanning, the hide is cleaned, stabilized, and often dyed through and through, creating a material that can withstand time and wear. This step is crucial, as poorly tanned leather will quickly degrade, no matter how good the rawhide was.

Finishing: The Final Touch

Once the tanning process is complete, the leather enters the finishing stage. This is where it gets its "makeup" to achieve the desired look and feel. Some leathers are naturally beautiful and require only minimal finishing to highlight their best qualities. These are rare and often command higher prices.

On the other hand, hides with more imperfections undergo extensive finishing to mask flaws. This can involve buffing, embossing, or adding layers of plastic coating to create a uniform appearance. While heavily finished leathers may look sleek and polished, they often feel more like plastic and lack the character of minimally treated leather.

High-end artisans typically prefer working with naturally beautiful hides, as it allows their craftsmanship to shine. In contrast, mass-produced fashion leather often relies on standardized, heavily finished materials to cut costs and ensure consistency. While these materials are technically leather, they don’t represent the pinnacle of quality.

Good vs. Bad Leather: What to Look For

Understanding leather quality goes beyond aesthetics. A truly great leather combines a high-quality rawhide, skilled tanning, and thoughtful finishing. Mediocre leather, on the other hand, may skimp on one or more of these pillars, resulting in a product that looks good initially but doesn’t stand the test of time.

There’s also an important environmental aspect to consider. Tanneries in developing countries often operate with minimal regulation, which can lead to harmful environmental practices. In contrast, tanneries in developed countries are typically more mindful and adhere to stricter standards, ensuring the process is as sustainable and ethical as possible.

Conclusion: Trust Your Instincts

You already have the tools to judge leather quality—it’s just a matter of reconnecting with them. Look beyond the brand name and marketing hype, and focus on the leather itself. Ask questions about where it came from, how it was tanned, and how it was finished.

The next time you’re considering a leather purchase, take a closer look. Feel the material, examine the grain, and trust your instincts. Leather is a timeless material, and when you choose wisely, it can become a cherished part of your life for years to come.

I hope this guide helps you rediscover your inner leather expert. Let me know if you’d like to explore more topics like this—and as always, stay leathertained!