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Welcome to Suede 101: The Velvet Side of Leather
- xoxo.minang
- Oct 7
- 5 min read
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Let’s start at the beginning — what exactly is suede? You’ve probably heard the term countless times, seen it on shoe labels and luxury bag tags, and maybe even owned a few pieces. But suede has its own fascinating story, one rooted deep in the anatomy of leather itself. And by the end of this article, we’ll not only uncover what makes suede so special but also talk about the finest suede I’ve ever seen — at The Row store in Paris — and the surprising warning that came with it.
What Is Suede, Really?
Suede comes from the back side of the leather — the side that used to touch the inside of the animal. The outer side, the one most people recognize, is called the grain. During the tanning process, tanneries remove the hair or wool through a process called dehairing, which exposes the grain layer beneath. This grain side is dense, tough, and naturally resistant because it was once the animal’s external barrier. The inner side, however, has a more open fiber structure — that’s where the signature soft, velvety texture of suede comes from.
Suede vs. Nubuck: Clearing Up the Confusion
Many people confuse suede with nubuck, but they’re not the same thing. Nubuck is made from the grain side of the leather — the top side — which is lightly buffed to give it a soft, velvety appearance. However, nubuck’s texture is finer and less plush than suede. When you run your hand over nubuck, it leaves a “writing effect” where the nap shifts slightly, but it never feels as deep or luxurious as true suede. Suede, on the other hand, is all about that buttery softness that comes from the inner fibers of the hide.
The Many Faces of Suede
Technically, every hide has a suede side. But not all suede is created equal. In the traditional leather industry, common sources include cow, sheep, goat, and pig — all byproducts of the meat industry.
Pig suede is often used for cheap linings or gloves. It’s easy to spot because of its large pores, and while functional, it’s not considered luxurious.
Goat suede, however, is a different story. Thanks to its dense fiber structure, goat suede often turns out beautifully — sometimes even better than the grain version of the same hide. It’s a popular choice for shoes, garments, and handbags that need both softness and durability.
Sheepskin suede is thin, light, and incredibly soft, making it ideal for garments and gloves. One special variation is shearling (or double-face), where the wool is kept on one side and the back is finished as suede. It’s the material of choice for winter coats and cold-weather gear — a craft I grew up seeing firsthand in my family’s tannery. When made well, shearling represents a true fine art in leather craftsmanship.
How Cowhide Becomes Suede
Cowhides are naturally thick — too thick to use as-is for most grain leathers. To make them more versatile, tanneries use a machine called a splitter to slice the hide into two or three layers. The upper layer retains the grain, while the bottom layers, which no longer have a grain surface, become suede splits. These splits are suede on both sides.
Not every split is good enough to become a suede article. Some are inconsistent, full of holes, or too uneven. Those lower-quality pieces get repurposed — often turned into gelatin or collagen for the food industry. This is one of the most fascinating aspects of leather: it’s a fully circular system. What starts as a byproduct of meat becomes a beautiful, durable material — and even its own waste is upcycled. Nothing is wasted.
Crafting the Perfect Suede
Only the most consistent splits move forward for tanning into suede articles. This is where true craftsmanship begins. Tanneries that specialize in suede have developed secret tanning recipes and precise mechanical techniques to raise and refine the nap — that fine velvet surface — to perfection. It’s a delicate balance of chemistry and artistry.
The very best suede tanneries in the world spend decades perfecting this single craft. And within that realm, one type reigns supreme: baby calf suede.
The King of Suedes: Baby Calf
Despite the name, no animal is raised or killed for its skin alone. Baby calf hides come as a byproduct of veal — the same served in fine dining. These hides are smaller and thinner than adult cowhide, so they’re used whole, without splitting. The result is an incredibly soft, fine-grained suede surface.
The fiber structure of calf leather is young and tight, producing a nap so smooth it almost glows. The touch is surreal — soft, short, and luminous. It’s the kind of texture that makes you pause and wonder, “What am I touching?”
The Row’s Suede in Paris: A Warning in Disguise
That brings us to The Row store in Paris, where I encountered the most extraordinary suede I’ve ever seen. The bag — if you can even call it that — was crafted from baby calf suede so fine it felt unreal. Its surface shimmered subtly under the light, and the hand feel was unlike anything else.
But then came the shock: the bag, priced at around €1,000, was made from just two small pieces of this incredible suede stitched together in the simplest way possible. It was more of a display of material than a design achievement. It felt like a missed opportunity — almost an exploitation of brand hype. If I were The Row, I’d think twice. Their clients are connoisseurs; they know when a product’s craftsmanship matches the price — and when it doesn’t.
The Reality of Suede Care
One of the defining traits of suede is its openness. Unlike grain leather, suede doesn’t have a protective coating on top. Its fibers are porous, which makes it beautifully tactile but also highly absorbent. Spill a drop of liquid on it, and it’s gone in seconds — unless your suede is treated.
High-end suede tanneries use secret recipes to fill the fibers with water-repellent molecules, buying you a few precious seconds to wipe away spills before they soak in. Some suedes are even made fully waterproof for performance applications, but that often sacrifices the elegance and softness that fashion demands.
In essence, suede is like an exotic car — stunning, but demanding. It requires care, attention, and the right use conditions. Treat it with respect, and it will reward you with timeless texture and understated luxury.
A Final Word
So, that’s suede — from its origins deep in the hide to its finest expression on Parisian shelves. It’s a story of transformation, craft, and care. And if you think this was fascinating, wait for Thursday’s video, where we sit down with an expert to reveal the best ways to maintain and clean your suede pieces.
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