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TikTok Trade Wars: Breaking Down the Birkin Breakdown

  • Apr 16
  • 4 min read

Updated: Apr 24

A viral TikTok claims Birkins cost $1,395 to make in China—Tanner Leatherstein breaks down what’s true, what’s twisted, and what Hermès won’t say

Watch the videos here:



What's Inside


So apparently, there’s another trend going on—some kind of “TikTok trade war”—and I totally missed it because I’ve been off news and social media for five years now. But even in the middle of a family trip here in Barcelona, I’ve gotten flooded with questions about this viral video where a guy breaks down the cost of making a Hermès Birkin. Naturally, I had to take a look. I watched the main video, and while I appreciate the effort, there are some serious inaccuracies that need clearing up—especially since this content is gaining traction.


Let’s go over the claims made in this video, point out what’s true, and highlight where it goes off track. If we’re going to talk about high-end luxury and global craftsmanship, let’s at least keep it real and accurate.


Materials Breakdown: Not Quite Togo


The video kicks off by listing the materials used to make a Birkin, showing a piece of leather and labeling it as Togo. Right away, I can tell you—that’s not Togo. Identifying leather types visually is tricky if you’re not trained for it, and calling something Togo when it isn’t sets a misleading tone for the rest of the breakdown.


Next, he claims that one piece of Togo leather costs $450. That’s incorrect. Real Togo leather from Weinheimer—a top-tier German tannery that Hermès does source from—costs closer to $330 on average, based on today’s rates. We’re talking 22 square feet at around €13 per square foot. So the leather cost in his video is inflated from the start.


The China Connection: True, But Misleading


Now, one thing he does get right is that China has access to the full material supply chain. Yes, that’s absolutely true. I’ve seen Chinese buyers drop half a million dollars on leather shipments straight from European tanneries—real Togo included. But here’s where nuance matters: the majority of counterfeit bags in China don’t actually use this premium leather. Why? Because the output of those European tanneries simply can’t meet that level of demand. Most fake bags use inferior leather to cut costs.


The video also claims that top-grade stainless steel hardware—often called "Ocean Steel"—is readily available in China, and that’s also true. But again, his pricing is off. He says one set of hardware costs $150. That’s padded. You can source top-quality hardware in China for less than that.



The $1,450 Cost Claim: Too High


He adds up all the materials and claims a total production cost of $1,450 for one Birkin-quality bag. Honestly, that feels exaggerated. I was in Guangzhou just last month and saw some top-tier fake Birkins—ones that looked better than the one shown in his video—being sold for $500. These were made with real Togo leather and quality stainless steel hardware. That’s the real ballpark we’re looking at.


So what’s the likely motive behind this inflated cost estimate? My guess is: he’s trying to justify selling his fakes or dupes at 3x the cost by riding the wave of a viral trend. But here’s the issue—if you’re going to expose something, or speak on it in a way that influences millions, you have to be accurate. Otherwise, you lose credibility.


The Real Question: Why Not Make Original Chinese Luxury?


Here’s where he actually says something valuable—he mentions that China has the materials, talent, and skills. That’s completely true. Chinese craftsmanship can be exceptional, and I’ve seen it firsthand. So here’s my challenge: Why are these talented artisans using all that skill to make dupes of iconic European brands?


Why not create something original?


Why not use the beautiful materials and high-grade hardware to build new, proudly Chinese brands that sell gorgeous, high-quality bags for $500 under their own names? The cost structures in China allow for massive profit margins even at that price. Trust me—I know.


A Moral Pivot in the Trade War


I’m not here to judge anyone who makes, buys, or carries fake bags. People make their choices, and everyone has different access and priorities. But if we’re really going to talk about the “trade war” in fashion, I think it should be more than just calling out Hermès’ pricing or breaking down cost structures.


It’s time to address the deeper issue: the cultural and moral looseness around intellectual property and originality. If creators in China—and anywhere—want to make viral content, gain global attention, or build a brand that lasts, then accuracy and originality are the cornerstones they need to start with.


Because once you lose credibility, no amount of virality can buy it back.




Final Thoughts


TikTok trends come and go, but craftsmanship, honesty, and creativity—those stick around. If there’s anything worth learning from this viral “Birkin breakdown,” it’s not just about how much leather or hardware costs. It’s about what we do with the tools, skills, and platforms we have. Let’s build better, not just cheaper.


And maybe next time someone tries to "expose the industry," they’ll do it with a little more precision—and a lot more respect for the craft.


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